Kadeau, Copenhagen

Philosophy

“The backbone of our cuisine is the nature of Bornholm – the wild as well as the cultivated. We care for the traditions, yet strive to renew. We are ambitious and thorough, yet we will always be playful and ever exploring. Our cuisine is regional, yet we are inspired by the whole world. We follow the rhythm of the years and the cycle of the seasons. During growing season we work intensively with nature’s changing supply, preserving as much as possible in the process. We preserve the natural ingredients of Bornholm, permitting us to serve up a tiny bit the Bornholm nature on our plates all year round. We constantly explore and develop our base of ingredients and techniques, in our storeroom as well as in the restaurant. We cultivate our own herbs, vegetables, fruits and berries, and collaborate closely with our suppliers.”

“We grow, harvest, preserve, serve, and love, Bornholm.”

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Finding the entrance isn’t the easiest, but well worth the effort, as you enter after ringing the bell, the kitchen team have assembled to welcome you inside, fantastic reception!
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the courtyard, was a beautiful way to start an evening, very tranquil and a great spot for a glass of NV Emmanuel Brochet “le Mont Benoit” Champagne
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definitely”nordic”
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to start, a bowl of warming broth made from beef and sol, with hints of shiitake and ham fat on top

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moving inside, just a sensational setting…..
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fire baked Kohlrabi, black currant leaf and white currant, delicious and interesting way to start, the kohlrabi was cooked but still crunchy, smoky and sweet
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100 year old mahogany clam with rose hip and fermented wheat, this one missed the mark in my option with the rose hip being too dominant, the other flavours were obscured
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savoy, parsley, sauerkraut, oyster – classic reinvented, briny, crunchy, creamy sweet. the cabbage was dusted with cabbage powder to give amazing depth of flavour, one of my dishes of the night
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Savoy unfolded!
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preserved vegetables, sea trout dash, salted plums – the sea trout dash was deep & smoky, the salted plum cut thru the dashi’s lushness really well
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bread service – roasted bread, herb butter infused with cherry wood embers (although the server told me it was hay ash), the butter was Amazing
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such a gorgeous restaurant
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langoustine, red berries, walnut and lavender – as with most dishes that use lavender, it was overpowering, still a nice dish but could have been more balanced, love the berries with langoustine (strawberry, raspberry & currants)

I missed a dish in here, a mussel shell filled with “blue mussel, hemp, pine buds, cream” – the diner is in danger of cutting themselves on the shell as you are instructed to eat direct from the shell, weakest dish of the night.

 

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green asparagus, lyme grass, nettles – roasted asparagus, crushed kales leaves on an emulsion of yeast, dusted with pine, a great combination
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“what is in the garden right now” tartlet – ceps, kale
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white aspragus, savages, wood ants – sauce of cheese fat, whey and fermented white asparagus – nominated for Copenhagen dish of the year……tasted like the best parts of the best cheese toasty you’ve ever had……

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had stop myself from inhaling this….
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grilled danish beef, icelandic kelp, angelica, koji butter – the beef was glazed in chicken reduction, brown butter and lemon juice, as all beef should be!
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lambe fermented pumpkin, ramson shoots
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the lamb was outstanding
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first dessert, Ymer, butter milk fudge, potato and sweet cicely – also had radish on top, interesting to have the sweetness of the potato and radish as the “Sweet”
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fermented raspberries, rud currant, creme fraiche and walnut schnapps made by the chefs dad, – this dish was served as individual components and brought together at the table, interesting although I’m undecided whether the ferment raspberries are my thing….
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petit fors and coffee – a buckwheat bread with sour cream and berries, potato with caramel

 

Overall this 1* restaurant punches above its weight, I had a fantastic meal, the highs were extremely high, but unfortunate lows let down the whole experience, one to watch though as if they improve consistency of dishes its definitely worth a 2nd star.

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